When you buy your checkering tools you will have the option of cutters that have a 90-degree "V" cut or a 60-degree cut. I prefer the 90-degree cutting tools as this cut will result in individual diamonds that have slightly larger or wider bases. True, they won't be as high, but they'll be stronger and less likely to break off the stock.

The DEM-Bart S-1 tool is ideal for converting negative impressed checkering to positive cut checkering.

Another benefit from the way Remington did its impressed checkering is that the pattern is normally pressed pretty deeply into the stock. This results in the checkering being a bit recessed into the stock with a ledge all around the pattern. That will make it a lot easier for us to avoid "runovers" or having our checkering cutter slip outside the pattern. The ledge serves as a natural stop for our cutting tools.

On the other hand, there is another problem with impressed checkering that you need to be aware of. When the die is pressed into the finished stock it is under tremendous pressure. This sometimes results in tiny cracks in the wood along the edge of the checkering pattern. There's not much you can do about that short of sanding and refinishing the entire stock. Even then, many of these tiny cracks will still be visible. I just ignore it. It's not pretty, but most folks won't notice 'em, and the overall effect of the cut checkering is still a heck of an improvement in the looks of the stock.

As you do your cutting, use your old toothbrush to constantly brush out the wood dust that you create. The cleaner you keep your lines, the easier they'll be to follow.

Make one pass on all the lines going in one direction first. Do not try to cut the lines to full depth at this time. Then make a single pass on all the crossing lines. Again, just make one pass. If you cut your lines too deeply, you'll have the devil to pay trying to cut across these deep lines with the crossing lines. It'll be worse than trying to drive your car across a freshly plowed field. Generally it takes me about three passes or so to fully "point up" my diamonds. You'll know when you're finished when all the individual diamonds in your pattern have nice sharp points.

Once the lines have been cut and deepened, a few drops of stock finish should be brushed into the freshly cut panel to protect and seal the wood.

The little short lines in the corners of the pattern are a problem for everyone. Even a short cutting tool like the DEM-Bart S-1 is just too long. However, we can deal with that! Get a couple of razor knives and carefully reshape the blades. Grind the tips of the blades into tiny little chisels. I have two. One has a blade point only .053 inch wide while the other is closer to .100 inch (that's 1/10 of an inch wide). With these little chisels I can literally cut in a single diamond in the corner of a pattern or finish up those nasty little lines.

The Finishing Touch
After you have completed cutting your lines and all your diamonds are fully pointed, you are ready for the final step. Use your toothbrush or another small brush to work a few drops of stock finish into the checkering. On my Remington 870 I used Miles Gilbert Classic American Gunstock Oil Finish that I picked up from MidwayUSA. It's an oil-modified polyurethane-type finish that penetrates the wood and helps to seal it. Don't use so much that you build up finish in the checkering. All you want to do is to just seal the wood, and a few drops is all that's needed. Any splash or drops of finish that get on the stock around the checkering pattern can be quickly wiped off with a clean cotton cloth.

That's about it. It's basically a simple process to upgrade your stock into something much more attractive and useful. And as a side benefit, it'll give you some darn good experience using your checkering tools.

Until next time, good luck and good gunsmithing!