I also use plenty of common blackboard chalk on the file. This prevents metal from clogging the file teeth and then creating gouges or deep scratches as the file is used.

Reid believes the best way to perform finer polishing--especially for a smooth, flat surface on a flat receiver--is to do it by hand using abrasive paper backed by the file.

Hand Polishing
Once the file work has been completed, I wrap the file with abrasive paper for further polishing. I work my way up through progressive grits until I reach the desired shine or luster.

Hand polishing really shows its value when working on a flat-sided receiver. To me, it doesn't matter whether it's an old Remington 870 shotgun, a Winchester 94 lever action, or a Colt 1911 auto pistol, the only way to get a true, smooth flat surface is by hand, using abrasive backed by a flat file. Think of it this way: How can you possibly keep and maintain a flat surface over a large area using only the small contact area of a large round buffing wheel? Yeah, someone somewhere can probably do it, but I have yet to meet that person.

Once you have worked on a few flat-sided receivers you will be amazed at how irregular many of these surfaces are. Guns that have never been touched after leaving the factory will be found with major high and low spots due to buffing. When using your file and abrasive you can make these surfaces true and flat.

That's all well and good for flat surfaces, but what about round barrels? If you have pitting, you still want to draw file. Just keep in mind that with every stroke of the file you'll leave a narrow, flat strip the length of the barrel. To avoid creating flats on the barrel, simply overlap your file strokes so your "flats" are as narrow as you can make 'em.

One goal in polishing metal is to keep the edges of the screw holes sharp and distinct.

The next step is to take a strip of abrasive and "shoe shine" the barrel, working from one end to the other. Don't over concentrate in one spot, or you'll get a low area and later have ripples on your barrel.

With the next higher grit, wrap the abrasive around a flat file and work back and forth along the length of the barrel. Do this until you have eliminated any grit marks or scratches from the previous grit abrasive that went around the barrel. Don't forget to overlap your lengthwise strokes to avoid flats.

With each successive finer grit of abrasive, alternate the direction of your polishing. Lengthwise, then around the barrel, then lengthwise again, and so forth. Be sure to finish with a circular, or shoeshine, polishing motion around the barrel.

Lettering can be a problem. Reid cautions to use extra care and thought when polishing over or around any markings on a firearm.

Markings or stampings are a problem. Many are very faint or shallow, and if you polish away metal around the stamping you can easily obliterate it. More often than not that's considered a mark of poor workmanship, and it will hurt the value of the firearm. Also, don't forget that it's a violation of federal law to even accidentally damage or remove a serial number. I strongly suggest you simply avoid polishing over any markings. On your last grit, you can carefully--oh so carefully--make one pass over the lettering. That's it! If there's pitting in the lettering, you'll have to make a decision. You can get rid of the pits, but you'll lose your lettering. I much prefer to leave a few pits in the lettering. It's much less objectionable in my opinion.

Good polishing does not require expensive equipment. A few files and some abrasive are basically all you need. That plus some time and careful thought will enable you to polish a gun far better than most gun manufacturers and a great many amateur and professional gunsmiths.

Until next time, good luck and good gunsmithing!