Reid uses a homemade bench support built from scrap pieces of 2x4s to help properly position the forearm of a stock. The "steps" on the bench support allow for variation in height.

Brass Hammer
I have a small brass hammer that gets a lot of use driving pins and small parts into place. Because it's brass and softer than the steel, there's very little danger of denting or marring the parts that are struck as would so often happen with a regular steel hammer. My favorite brass hammer is one I made maybe 30 years ago out of some brass salvaged from a water faucet along with some scrap steel and a piece of an old gunstock. (Did I mention I'm cheap?)

Packing Hook
I'm not quite sure about the real name for this item. I've always called it a packing hook. It's a pointed metal rod that's a tad bit longer than a pair of shop tweezers, and it has a straight point on one end and a curved hook on the other end. I use the straight point as a scribe to lay out lines or mark the location of holes as well as to clean out crud and gunk that builds up inside guns.

The straight point is also often used to help align parts that are secured by a pin. The long taper on the shaft can frequently help to position parts prior to inserting a pin or screw. It saves a lot of time and frustration. The hook is also a real lifesaver for helping to position small parts and springs inside actions where my old fat fingers just can't squeeze in.

Small Ball-Peen Hammer
The last inexpensive tool that sees a lot of regular use in my shop is a plain little four-ounce ball-peen hammer. It's constantly being used to drive punches and for minor swaging or forging tasks. The hammer itself is nothing special, and you can find similar ones at any hardware store. However, I've carefully polished both the face and ball of my hammer, and that ensures that these critical surfaces are absolutely smooth, which makes them less likely to scar or mark any item the hammer strikes.

The two hammers Reid uses most often are a four-ounce ball-peen hammer (B) and a homemade brass hammer that he fashioned from scrap.

This can be especially important when reshaping and repairing damaged screw heads. By the way, gun parts seldom require the application of a lot of force. Generally, if you need a bigger hammer than this, there is something wrong that needs to be corrected.

Well, that's about it. None of these tools costs over a few bucks, and some were literally made from scrap. However, they're all used on almost a daily basis when I work at my bench. If you don't have similar items I would heartily encourage you to add these tools to your shop. I'd be willing to bet that once you have them and use them, like me you'll wonder how the heck you got along without 'em.

Until next time, good luck and good gunsmithing!