The Model 70 M.O.A. trigger system works on the principle of the pivoting lever. As the trigger piece moves rearward (X), it travels only half the distance of the actuator (2X), eliminating the perception of trigger creep and overtravel.

How Important Is All This?
I've never understood why there has always been a distinction made between production-grade triggers and target-grade triggers. Yes, I do understand that a few-ounce "breathe-on-it" trigger for a benchrest competition rifle, used only under controlled competition conditions, is probably not what you want on an elk rifle that you'll be rough-hauling up and down the mountainsides. But I'm also not satisfied with the stiff, creepy, 6- or 7-pound trigger pulls we've been offered up to now on most store-bought hunting rifles, which is what most of us have in our racks. Why shouldn't a hunting/utility rifle have a solid and safe, glass-crisp 2.5-pound trigger? Solid and safe being the operative terms.

Trigger pull does make a difference in the success of your shots. When you're sighting-in at the benchrest or competing in a rifle match, you've got time to prepare yourself, settle-in, focus on trigger pull, and give attention to any trigger irregularities that might be present. In the field, everything can happen unexpectedly all at once in an instant. The last thing you need distracting you or affecting your aim is a shoddy trigger pull. And the longer the shot presents itself, and the quicker you have to make it, the more important a crisp, light trigger pull becomes. If you have to be conscious of your trigger's pull and if you have to think about it to keep from pulling off the shot, you lose.

Still Hope For Your Old Rifles
How much difference is there between your accuracy with a good trigger and a poor trigger? A lot.

A few years ago, I acquired a new .22-250 varmint rifle from a leading brand-name manufacturer. It had a particularly stiff trigger. The trigger mechanism on this particular well-known model of rifle has mechanical adjustments--although breaking the shellac-sealed screws to make adjustments voids the warranty and is officially discouraged by the company--but every adjustment I tried still left it with a very heavy 7-pound-plus "stack" at the moment of break-off, even at the closest adjustment possible before interfering with the manual safety function. Stoning the interfaces didn't help. The rifle shot well, but even when I applied extreme concentration at the bench, with very deliberate trigger control, I couldn't get anything consistently better than 1.5- to 2.00-inch groups at 100 yards with the scope set at 24X magnification. That's not what you want on a long-range prairie dog or coyote gun.