To remove the breechplug, twist it counterclockwise 90 degrees until its index mark is aligned with the mark on the barrel and then pull it from the barrel. Interrupted threads cut into the shank of the breechplug allow this to be done, and alignment of the index marks indicates when the two rows of threads are aligned for removal or installation.

ushing the Triumph's trigger guard forward allows the barrel to hinge down.

When the breechplug is being installed, it must be rotated clockwise far enough for a flat on its surface to align with a flat in the bottom of the receiver, otherwise the barrel will not close. This is done to prevent the rifle from being fired should the breechplug not be fully rotated all the way home to its proper position.

A replaceable rubber O-ring and three steel gas-compression rings located on the breechplug are there to reduce the amount of propellant fouling that can reach the threads. In the event that fouling does blow by in sufficient quantity to prevent the breechplug from being rotated and pulled from the barrel with the fingers, use the tool to rotate it while making sure the two witness marks are perfectly aligned and then push the plug out by running a cleaning rod down the barrel.

Preventing the barrel from closing unless the breechplug is installed properly is not the only safety feature designed into the rifle. Another is a disconnector that allows the hammer to be cocked only when the barrel is fully closed and the trigger guard is in its locked position. Since the hammer is of the rebounding type, it does not contact the firing pin when resting in its forward position.

Twisting the Triumph's Speed Breech XT breechplug counterclockwise 90 degrees disengages its interrupted threads and allows it to be removed. Unless it's gummed up from loads of shooting, no tools are required.

In addition, an internal block is designed to prevent the hammer from reaching the firing pin in the unlikely event that it travels forward from its cocked position without the trigger being squeezed. Plenty of room between the spur of the hammer and the bottom of a scope makes it easy to cock, even when wearing gloves.

Squeezing the trigger releases the manually cocked hammer, allowing it to strike the floating firing pin.

Like the Encore, the Triumph has a floating firing pin housed within a bushing in the standing breech of its receiver. Pressing the trigger releases the cocked hammer, allowing it to move forward and drive the firing pin to contact a 209 primer resting in its receptacle.

The Triumph comes with a tool designed for the insertion of a primer during the loading process, but tipping the breech puts it into such easy reach, I find it easier to load a primer with my thumb and finger. The other end of the tool can be used to remove a spent primer, but unless a primer becomes stuck, I find plucking it out with my fingers to be the way to go. Regardless of which method is used, the rifle should be tilted to the side to prevent the primer from dropping into the receiver.

The fully adjustable rear sight has a fiber-optic insert.

Removing the barrel from the receiver is more complicated than with the Encore, but it should not need to be done very often because the bore is easily cleaned without barrel removal. After the ramrod and forearm are removed, and with the barrel open and the trigger guard in its unlocked position, a 1/16-inch hex wrench is used to remove the retention screw of the trigger-guard pivot pin.

Reaching inside the trigger guard and removing that tiny screw is the tricky part. Then the trigger-guard pivot pin is pushed out to either side. Turn out the barrel's hinge-pin retaining screw at the left side of the receiver with a flat-blade screwdriver and then push out the hinge pin. The barrel can now be lifted from the receiver.